Wednesday, 19 January 2011


Oh goodness sake, are we shocked, Kate Moss is kissing Lea T on the new issue of  Love magazine. No, not really I suppose. Maybe, the 'normal' world is shocked by a super model, who reputation in regards to kissing is not white wash anyway and a super- cool, super- gorgeous transsexual is hotly snogging on the front page of a fashion magazine. I do not understand why people are still shocked by it. As I was writing in an earlier post, fashion is right now fascinated with transsexuality and if it opens up this ' taboo' to the broader public and leads to an open discussion about the problems of transsexuals than it is a good thing. I think it is unfortunately still brave that Lea T did do the Givenchy's ad campaign only if she can talk about transsexual. She said that if you grow up as a transsexual the main issue is you do not know what to live for. Lea T wanted to show transsexuals that if she can do it they can to. That they can be successful and have a great live!  I must say I just find the cover really beautiful and sexy. The kiss looks real and that is important for me.Let's pull down stupid prejudices!!!

Tuesday, 18 January 2011


I know this is not one of the newest pictures and although I have a love/ hate relationship with mega retailers, I must say that the khaki military inspired overall from the H& M's trend label collection is one of my favourites for SS 2011. I can see me wearing it with this dark nice blue jacket, trainers or sandals. Wearing a jump suit for as a man is quite tricky either you feel like toddler or something like a camp Captain Kirk from Starship Enterprise. I just like that this jump suit has something men- specific about it like an overall of a bloke to who works in a garage or an soldier. It is defiantly wearable. Well done H& M.
H& M SS 2011


We all know the Sixties was the time where loads of things were going on. In England we had the Beatles, Mary Quant's Mini-skirts and David Hockney. In New York they had the Velvet Underground, Diana Vreeland at Vogue and Andy Warhol. At the end of the Sixties the 'Stars' of Andy Warhol's ' Silver Factory started meeting in a small bar on Park Avenue at Seventeenth Street, called Max's Kansas City. Mickey Ruskin, the restaurant owner was there at the right time at the right place- Punk has still had it's time to come and also Studio 54 was years away. The entry was selected. Ruskin's talent was to 'curate' people. The result was, as Andy Warhol put it: ' Max's Kansas City was the place where Pop Art and pop live came together in New York City at the end of the Sixties'. Artists and musicians came as came the fashion world. There were the photographers and many fashion stars: Appolina van Ravenstein, Donna Jordan. Daniela Morera, Pilar Crespi. 
I just love the photos taken at Max's Kansas during it's heydays from the late 1960's to 1979. To watch these people dressed in their 'best' and partying wild is so amazing. Some of the pictures would not be out of place ind today's ID-magazine or Another....
Patti Smith ca. 1979

Unknown lady ca 1973

The leather t-shirt could be by Neil Barett today- David Johansen and David Bowie ca.1974

Mick Jagger ca. 1972

Angela Bowie and Cyrinda Foxe ca. 1971

Friday, 14 January 2011


Lately I found my self again more or less broke. My poor readers must start feeling bored with me contstantly complaining how little I have left money wise, but I apologise, the first steps as a freelancer in the world of fashion are very creative but , hmm, how can I put it, I'm not really showered by money. So, let's take the creativity than and stop moaning. A true stylist can take just a tie or a belt or a fur collar and, whoops, he transforms your look like you  have just jumped off the A/W 2011 catwalk of Thierry Mugler's men's show, which the first time this season is being overseen by our creative director genius Nicola Formichetti . A luxurious accessory immediately enhances a more or less mediocre wardrobe immensely . And ties/ bow ties/ handkerchief should of course be a stable in every men's wardrobe and even the most conservative dresser might add a little colour to his outfit through these now and then . So is it really worth it spending our hard earned pennies on excellent quality and innovative design? There we go and  Edsor Kronen comes along.
Edsor Kronen was founded 1909 in Berlin/ Germany. It is one of the last producers of men's luxury accessories which are still designed and fabricated with Italian silk in their factory in Berlin. Since 2009 the owner and head designer Guenther H. Stelly ( it sounds like Shelley and believe me Stelly is also a true genius in his field ) appointed his god son Jan- Hendrik M. Scheper- Stuke ( this name sounds also in German quirky but very posh!). A good looking ( although the German press has labeled him among others as 'schnoeslig' which means something between a nerd and a toff , but I think this guy has so much style and elegance which is unfortunately hard to find in Germany) dandy with 50 suits and 250 bow ties in his wardrobe and a brilliant sense for style and publicity. A move which can be put just in these words: Jan- Hendrik came to Edsor Kronen and the company never looked back again!
Jan- Hendrik Scheper  Stuke. CEO and Head of Marketing at Edsor Kronen
A sneak glance into Jan- Hendrik's tie and bow tie drawers. It is amazing- he is the ' Imelda Marcos of Ties '. I am just jealous, honestly, Herr Scheper Stuke.

Guenther H. Stelly designer and creative director of Edsor Kronen

Guenther's closet. I must explain that to owe a closet in a Berlin flat is as unusual than to find one in London. Again what a dream. The closet is as big as my apartment in London.

Stelly designs, you will not believe it but is true, up to 1600 designs per season which make 3200 designs a year. Additionally he and Jan have access to the companies over 100 000 vintage fabrics, collected over the last thirty years to create their product range of ties, bow ties also called ascots, handkerchiefs, scarves, cummerbunds and dressing gowns. Each product has it's specialties at Edsor Kronen:

- the ties are all hand sewn from finest Italian silk 

-the bow tie hooks rather than being fastened awkwardly at the back of the neck is situated practically under the shirt collar.Also the bow ties come with a complementing handkerchief but Edsor Kronen suggests to always take a different coloured handkerchief than the colour of the bow tie.

- cummerbunds come in two different widths: standard and a range of narrower cummerbunds for the fashionable use of the above

- scarves are reversible and the mix of wool and silk wonderful to feel 

- and last but not least: the dressing gown is, at Edsor Kronen, the male equivalent of the 'lounging pyjamas' favoured by upper class ladies during the 1930's, it is the pinnacle of luxury. Just the most fluent silks are used to create your own special morning gown which is made-to-measure and will be created just on request. Just imagine how you open the door in the morning to pick up your bottle of milk and feel like Clark Gable. What a wonderful image to start the day like this, isn't it.

This is not Edsor Kronen, it is the New York based designer Robert Geller . I used the picture just as an example of how to wear a cummerbund in a more fashionable way. And I will definately get one for SS11!!!
Since the arrival of Jan- Hendrik, Edsor Krone is starting to expand and and go into directions which are rather brave for a luxury men's accessories company which clients that are mostly more on the conservative site right now. The vintage fabric for example are being sold to up-and- coming Berlin designers like Kilian Kerner who used the bright Edsor Kronen 1980's designs for his A/W 2010 collection named ' Was der Himmel sagt' (' What heaven is saying' by the way I will write about Kilian Kerner in another post soon).
Additionally, Edsor Kronen has done work with Wolfgang Joop's Wunderkind, another cooperation with  the meanwhile established German label La La Berlin  and also worked with the Danish label Wood Wood
The head quarter and factory is based in Kreuzberg. A very cosmopolitan, trendy borough of Berlin. The reception rooms are furnished with excellent taste. By the way Stelly has one of the biggest private collection of Chinese artifacts in Germany. 
View of the meeting room at the Edsor Kronen head quarters in Kreuzberg/ Berlin
Finished bow ties, handkerchiefs and ties in emerald green ( just thinking the bow tie would look great on me.....)

Jan- Hendrik Schleper Stuke overviewing the prodcution process in order to keep standards high.

Here you can get a grip of how many different fabrics Guenther Stelly is designing each season. The man is a genius, isn't he?
The boss and his ' tie-girls'.
The last point is the price- starting from around € 80.00. Is that expensive for a product which is produced with so much craftsmanship and I would even say love towards the finished product. No, I don't think that is expensive. My impression of Edsor Kronen is that it is a company which has been described best as 'exclusive but personal'. Jan- Hendrik is absolutely the right person to bring Edsor Kronen to the top of mens fashion world. His business sense, his eccentricity , his dandyism and most important his willingness to take a risk by working together with new designers and Guenther Stelly's boundless creativity, 30 years of fashion experience and an eye for beauty will bring the brand where it belongs: to be mentioned together with Germany's few top fashion labels like Jil Sander, Wunderkind by Wolfgang Joop and Boss.
 I would like to mention that most pictures are taken from the Berlin interview web page  FVF- Freunde von Freunden ( translation: ' Friends of Friends' ) This site actually conducts interviews with the well- known public persons of the creative and business world of Berlin in German and English to give an insight how and why people love living in Germany's unfortunately sometimes a bit neglected capital. On the page you can also find interviews with Jan- Hendrik M. Scheper- Stuke Guenther H. Stelly and more photos of their factory in Kreuzberg. Some of my information is also credited to the Edsor Kronen home page itself. 

I hope you enjoyed my post: The Fashion Philosopher.

Thursday, 13 January 2011


The new luxury retail website MR PORTER ( the ' brother website of NET-A-PORTER ) which will soon open its doors with over 80 world's leading designers is offering to become a founding member. The founding membership gives you: 

  • Exclusive access to the site before it launches to the public
  • Complimentary shipping for all purchases during this period
  • Seasonal previews and MR PORTER exclusives
  • Access to a team of Personal Shoppers for expert style advice
If you want to take the advantage and be aware the founding membership is limited just go to and sign up.

Enjoy the shopping!!!



After three month now my first ever published photos. That's actually me: The Fashion Philosopher. In an earlier post I took a picture of a bloke who was wearing a fur stole as scarf. Eventually, I got one too. It is a 1950's fur collar. Unfortunately, I had to cut off the little feet dangling off the collar which was terrible. The little feet were ending up on my floor and my cat came in and ( maybe it was just me thinking so ) looking first at the feet then at me in a terrified way. I immediately put the little claws into the litter bin. Sorry, for the gross details... but the result is quite good. It is the first time I am wearing real fur and I must say it is the warmest shawl I have ever had.
Hi, that's me. The Fashion Philosopher.
Actually I was quite surprised I was at ' Maison de Chocolat' ( I know after seeing my pictures it will definitely be the last time in le ' Maison' pour petit moi for a long time ) and the sales lady asked me if it was real fur and if she can touch it. She was fascinated but also I had the feeling little bit disgusted but maybe I should not have told her the story about the little ' feet'.....

Sorry, for the strange look on my face. I am not burping...I just wanted to show off my new trousers from Moelk for Topman.

And again the fur collar style with my winter coat. I know using real fur is a big ethical question in fashion and it might sound superficial but everything which I wear with the fur collar looks suddenly a 'thousand dollars'. Fur instantly magically makes everything looking so much more luxuries and expensive.

Coat: French Connection found on the street
Jumper: H& M Trend Label
Trousers: Moelk for Topman
Shoes: H& M
Beanie: H& M, actually my girl friend beret rolled up on the edges
Fur Collar: 1950's Vintage ( without feet!)
Paisley foulard: Salvation Army 

I hope you enjoyed my first pictures. More will follow.....

Wednesday, 12 January 2011


The FTM is delighted to welcome some of the best names in the design business to join in a wide-ranging panel discussion chaired by style guru Peter York - the panel includes designer Sue Timney, world renowned fashion designer Betty Jackson, and editor of House and Garden Susan Crewe - will all be discussing what inspires them, what makes good design and wherever else their thoughts take them. An exciting evening with some of the UK's best known designers - see their website for full details.
Price: £15 / £12 concessions, incl a glass of wine & free exhibition entrance. Attendees wishing to view the exhibition should arrive early.
Spaces are limited therefore advance booking is recommended.
Book online now
or call FTM on 020 7407 8664,

Sunday, 9 January 2011


Unfortunately, stupid me I spilled coffee over my computer and have a bit problems with copying pictures. Still I would like to break the news the British Fashion Council has decided with men's wear designers will show in their show room during Paris men's fashion week AW11 from Saturday 22nd – Tuesday 25th January 2011.

Participating designers are: Bernstock SpeirsBlaakChristopher ShannonChristopher RaeburnDr. Noki’s – NHSE.TautzFannie SchiavoniJ.W. AndersonJames LongJunky StylingKatie EaryKTZLou DaltonMatthew J MillerNasir MazharOmar KashouraTim SoarTodd Lynn.

Friday, 7 January 2011


MR HARE- bazin shoes from £ 485.00 to £ 291.00
PANDLETON- light weight tote from £ 100.00 to £ 60.00
LOU DALTON- fairisle crew knit jumper from £ 250.00 to £ 125.00
NEIL BARETT- leather panel sweatshirt from £ 510.00 to £ 306.00
FORGOTTEN FUTURE- cord trousers from £ 200.00 to £ 100.00
All clothes are available from Colours and sizes a subject to availability. Sales prices might change too.

Wednesday, 5 January 2011


Katie Eary one of my favourite new designer. Katie studied her MA and The Royal College Of Arts. After graduation she got a phone call from Vogue. Mario Testino was gonna shoot some of her custom made pieces on Kate Moss. She herself says that she is coming from the back door and if she had studied women's fashion- she would not have been that successful. I am not sure? Her SS11 collection ' How To Create A Velvet Machine' are inspired by the world of dog fighting and boxing. Her SS11 collection is the most commercial so far. She embraces London's punk history but combines it with a good portion of working class hedonism. I love how she plays with stripes, tartan cheque and leopard print. A combination which takes a lot of bravery to master. I also love that in brings knit into the summer with her striped mohair jumpers worn on vertically striped shirts and the chunky black knitted short sleeve ' T-jumbs '. It's a through and through British collection which evokes the old East End and it's boxing clubs and seafarer pubs.

All pictures are from


NEW POWER STUDIO- bonobo shirt from £ 338.00 to £ 169.00

NEW POWER STUDIO- sureli shirt from £ 130.00 to £ 65.00

NIGEL CABOURN- blue everst parka from £ 1599.00 to £ 799.00

YVONNE KONE- AW 10  seafarer ruck sack from £ 299.00 to £ 149.00

J.W. ANDERSON- feaux shearling cashmere jacket from £ 780.00 to £ 390.00
All clothes are available at Sizes and colours are subject to availability. Sales prices might change too.


With a new year just started, I started to think where I would like to go with my blog which I started three month ago. What I really would like to establish and create is a platform where I show and wear up- and coming men's wear designers and show that men's fashion is not only big luxury brands and Savile Row. Since Beau Brummel London has been the epicenter of men's fashion. European aristocracy and later Hollywood went to Savile Row to get there trunks full of handcrafted, impeccable fitted men's clothes. But today? OK, Savill Row is re-emerging and dusting off it's old style image. E.Tautz and B Store are bringing fresh air into the' Street of Menswear' but the voices are getting louder that men's fashion is not getting the same support as women's fashion. The support for women's fashion in London has changed a lot in the last 10 years but men fashion is traditionally slower as we all know. I refer to the article by i-D's contributing editor Charles Porter a in i-D's ' Back to the Future' issue from December 2010 and Style Savage's Steve's post 'Men's fashion 2010 and beyond with it's featured thoughts by retailer Daniel Jenkins. All three are contemplating and complaining where men's fashion is right now and where it will or should go. I know the problem Porter is complaining about, that he wanted to spoil himself with a new season Christopher Shannon in the West End but could not find anything. While the big department luxury shops are used to stock big names next to new comers in the ladies' departments, he is complaining that this ideas is not repeated on the men's floor. OK, we have  a Men's Day now on the last day during London Fashion Week but the money to spend on buying new designers is usually spent in January and June, but Men's Day during is in February and September. OK, again here we find the first steps for improvement, the British Showroom shows British menswear designers during Paris Fashion week, but I am not sure if the same happens during Pitti Uomo in Milano? Improvement also on the e-retail side of men's wear.Oki-ni, Asos, The Corner and LN- CC are stocking new menswear labels like my favourite Umit Benan and others like Martine Rose and Omar Kashoura. In line with all these thoughts I am also missing seeing men dressed and styled in these new designers' clothes. I would like to change that and as soon as my financial situation changes and my career as a stylist is improving I will try to show how you can wear and style the new men's wear. I know the line to wear avantgarde and looking camp ( which is I think the worst expression- looking camp) or ridiculous is quite small but if we men do not try to get these new ideas and men's wear designers on the street and actually wear and buy them we will loose a lot of talent in the men's fashion world. 

In regards to my aim I would like to also show again and again new men's wear designers and today I would like to re-introduce one of the best new comers in men's wear New Power Studio  by famous stylist Thom Murphy.
Murphy the lanky, slightly camp stylist was born in near to Liverpool and made his name as Fashion Stylist, Art Director, Brand consultant and cheeky boy about town, working in predominantly in the realm of contemporary men's fashion. His beautiful editorial work you can find featured within i-D, Dazed and Confused, Arena Homme Plus and Another Man.
He launched his label New Power Studio in 2009 and showed the last three seasons during LFW. His designs are inspired by pop culture combining sportswear and tailoring references.

You can see the strong influences of British 'scully culture' and New York street style. The clothes are very wearable for men and I personally find them reminiscent of a young Raf Simons. Additionally I like the quirkiness of the accessories and the shows performance with a hint of  'do- not- take- it to serious. It is definitely a label to watch.

                                                   2011 BACK STAGE PICKS:


All picks are taken from

Tuesday, 4 January 2011


0044- cotton boxing short from £ 260.00 to 130.00

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER- cardigan from £ 425.00 to £ 297.50

CASELY- HAYFORD- two piece donkey jacket from £ 1190.00 to £ 833.00

DAMIR DOMA- kimono front leather jacket from £ 2520.00 to 1764.00

DAMIR DOMA- long sleeved top from £ 240.00 to £ 168.00
All clothes are either available from  or Sizes and colours are subject to availability. Prices are from the date of the post. Have fun shopping.... love, the fashion philosopher.