Or 'I am dressing, therefore I am!' The Fashion Philosopher
Wednesday 5 January 2011
MENS FASHION FORWARD
With a new year just started, I started to think where I would like to go with my blog which I started three month ago. What I really would like to establish and create is a platform where I show and wear up- and coming men's wear designers and show that men's fashion is not only big luxury brands and Savile Row. Since Beau Brummel London has been the epicenter of men's fashion. European aristocracy and later Hollywood went to Savile Row to get there trunks full of handcrafted, impeccable fitted men's clothes. But today? OK, Savill Row is re-emerging and dusting off it's old style image. E.Tautz and B Store are bringing fresh air into the' Street of Menswear' but the voices are getting louder that men's fashion is not getting the same support as women's fashion. The support for women's fashion in London has changed a lot in the last 10 years but men fashion is traditionally slower as we all know. I refer to the article by i-D's contributing editor Charles Porter a in i-D's ' Back to the Future' issue from December 2010 and Style Savage's Steve's post 'Men's fashion 2010 and beyond with it's featured thoughts by retailer Daniel Jenkins. All three are contemplating and complaining where men's fashion is right now and where it will or should go. I know the problem Porter is complaining about, that he wanted to spoil himself with a new season Christopher Shannon in the West End but could not find anything. While the big department luxury shops are used to stock big names next to new comers in the ladies' departments, he is complaining that this ideas is not repeated on the men's floor. OK, we have a Men's Day now on the last day during London Fashion Week but the money to spend on buying new designers is usually spent in January and June, but Men's Day during is in February and September. OK, again here we find the first steps for improvement, the British Showroom shows British menswear designers during Paris Fashion week, but I am not sure if the same happens during Pitti Uomo in Milano? Improvement also on the e-retail side of men's wear.Oki-ni, Asos, The Corner and LN- CC are stocking new menswear labels like my favourite Umit Benan and others like Martine Rose and Omar Kashoura. In line with all these thoughts I am also missing seeing men dressed and styled in these new designers' clothes. I would like to change that and as soon as my financial situation changes and my career as a stylist is improving I will try to show how you can wear and style the new men's wear. I know the line to wear avantgarde and looking camp ( which is I think the worst expression- looking camp) or ridiculous is quite small but if we men do not try to get these new ideas and men's wear designers on the street and actually wear and buy them we will loose a lot of talent in the men's fashion world.
In regards to my aim I would like to also show again and again new men's wear designers and today I would like to re-introduce one of the best new comers in men's wear New Power Studio by famous stylist Thom Murphy.
Murphy the lanky, slightly camp stylist was born in near to Liverpool and made his name as Fashion Stylist, Art Director, Brand consultant and cheeky boy about town, working in predominantly in the realm of contemporary men's fashion. His beautiful editorial work you can find featured within i-D, Dazed and Confused, Arena Homme Plus and Another Man.
He launched his label New Power Studio in 2009 and showed the last three seasons during LFW. His designs are inspired by pop culture combining sportswear and tailoring references.
You can see the strong influences of British 'scully culture' and New York street style. The clothes are very wearable for men and I personally find them reminiscent of a young Raf Simons. Additionally I like the quirkiness of the accessories and the shows performance with a hint of 'do- not- take- it to serious. It is definitely a label to watch.
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