We all know a bit about the Russian Revolution 1917 which saw Russia changing from an repressive empire to a repressive communist state the USSR. Unfortunately, Russian people, even with
Perestroika and
Gorbachev. have never had the chance to live in a real democracy but I do not want to go to much into political details. The revolution I am talking about is the revolution of taste and luxury. Even in Russia, which used to be a brilliant market for all 'bling' and 'shine' luxury- in terms of if you have ' it ' flaunt ' it '. But Russian taste is going through a transformation which appreciates more and more their own young breed of designers instead of the big names like
Chanel and
Louis Vuitton. The concept of ' Less is More ' which slowly embraces
Moscow's and
St Petersburg own street style and brings an awareness to young Russia designers about cultural roots and their recent history.
Gosha Rubchinsky is the first Russian designer who is stocked and
Moscow's answer to
Collette, the dynamic concept store
Magazin.Gosha Rubchinsky grew up during a time Russia's politics and society was changing. He is one of the new breed of designers who is intellectually and creatively inspired by the fall of the Iron Curtain. Young people in Russia back then did not understand the concept of sub cultures and their codes, therefore they mixed everything.
 |
| menswear designer Gosha Rubensky |
|
After working as a stylist for 5 years he decided 2008 to found his own label
Aglec. His designs are as eclectic as the way he presents his work. He mixes clothes with film and photography. Sporty, basic sweat suits, tank tops, star spangled boxer briefs together with spiked leather mask- everything goes, maybe best expressed by an outfit consisting of a jumper with the Russian double eagle embroidered in front with a pair of shorts with the American ' Star and Stripes' motive as fabric print.
 |
| Empire of Evil collection SS2009 |
 |
| Empire of Evil collection SS2009 |
His presentations are both theatrical and and sociological, incorporating photos, movies and books. The space in which he stages his catwalk shows are very important to him. So for example his AW 2009 ' Growing and Expanding ' was executed in a old school gym. Showing the same collection during the '
Cycle and Season' ( unfortunately every time I tried the website I got a blank page!? ) which is a more interesting alternative to
Russian and
Moscow Fashion Weeks, he again goes back to the school idea by having his models sit on a large wooden stair reminiscent of auditoriums for lecturing students.
 |
| Growing and Expanding collection AW 2009 |
Internationally, his reputation grew too. Beginning of 2010 he showed at
Fashion East Man an installation of his AW2010 collection named ' Slave '. In
Berlin he showed a retrospective ( I think after three collections at this point of time you can not really call it an retrospective, but well...) in form of an installation at the workshop of the fashion- edge, culture magazine
032c . And again contradictions like mood boards in the glass display showing architecture- both- sacral and soviet- which captivates the always underlying energetic tension of two oppsite sidea like communism and empire or dictatorship and democracy.
His next collection was called '
Rassvet Ne Za Gorami '. Sorry, I could not find out from anywhere what that means but it definitely adds to
Rubensky's mystic.
 |
| SS 2010 |
 |
| SS 2010 |
 |
| SS 2010 |
|
|
His work has been described as ' a personal take on uniformity of Moscow street gangs and suburb sportswear, mixed with political paraphernalia ( 032c magazine) '. Like Hedi Slimane or Raf Simons he is fascinated by the exclusivity of the ' boy club '. He cares about his models which he usually finds on the streets of Moscow or while skating. Asked what his dreams were, Rubinsky answered that either he would love to take over a couture house or to build a cultural camp for his young skaters to study, work and make art.
Even with all his contractions and the not easy living situation in Russia's capital with a young generation not really aware of their powers and heritage- even with all his darkness he shows a very positive social responsibility to his surrounding and the people he loves. This is quite unusual for a young person who lives in a world which usually emphasizes the importance of the individual instead of family and friends.
 |
| The ' Slave ' collection AW 2010 |
 |
| The ' Slave ' collection AW 2010 |
 |
| The ' Slave ' collection AW 2010 |
 |
| The ' Slave ' collection AW 2010 | | |
 |
| The ' Slave ' collection AW 2010- cover of the look book |
|
Please go and have a look at his label's website
Agelec. I am just intrigued by his use of print and movies to create his world. I think his clothes must be considered with his background of rich Russians love for big names, big diamonds and fakeness. His clothes are simple but the more I found my way through his work something started understanding him. Again, although his work seems to come from a darker side. I have a very strong feeling of growth in me in regards to his his work. I think you will find in Europe and the USA right now a few outstanding designers which embrace a dark mystique and organic growth in their work like Damir Doma and Rick Owens but compared to Gosha's designs, these designers almost look playful sometimes even fussy. I think the darkness in Gosha's designs is executed in a cleaner and more sober way - he reflects somehow with his work a harder truth of reality. Gosha Rubchinsky will grow into an excellent designer with his ability to observe and question his surroundings but also to find his way towards his Russian heritage and will dress the people he loves. I can not wait till his SS 2011 is out. I hope soon. He is definitely one to watch.
The Fashion Philosopher
Those are some serious gloves!
ReplyDelete